whirlwind

The balafone music on Friday night was great fun, and really relaxing. The best part was watching the 10-12 year old boys getting up and dancing. Interestingly (for a toubab), there were no women or girls that got up and danced. mostly it was adult men, but there was a little group of boys who got up from time to time... they really got into it although they always stayed right together. The maquis was essentially a bunch of tables and chairs on the side of the dirt road, so as taxis and motos went by they spray dust over everyone.

Saturday after seeing the patients, we went to pay our respects to the deceased patient's family. It was the first time I'd been into an ordinary, "upper middle class" home. We drove 15 minutes off the paved road, into sprawling quartier populaires and met the aunt in the market near their house. The market is a collection of roughly tied together stands consisting of a table with a little grass sunshade; many of the stalls look like they'll be toppling over any minute. From the market we walked another 5 minutes to their compound which was made up of an enclosure containing several goats and chickens, and 4 one- or two-room buildings for the husband, each of the 2 co-wives and the adult kids. (Polygamy is legal and common here especially in the older generation). We sat down in the living room, which had 2 couches and a huge religious picture, a cross and a the grandfather's commendation certificates hanging on the walls. There was also a moto in the living room. Its the tradition here to give money to the grieving family, so we did that. The family was really touched that I (the toubab doctor) took the effort to go out there and I was thankful i could help them in their grief.

I am seeing about 17 patients / day, and we've had quite a few new ones this week - just my luck! They take quite a while to see. The "morning" clinic goes 7am-2pm every day since i'm on my own. I'm getting better at drawing blood at least from big kids (have been passing off the little kids to the nurses, in part because of the time it takes!).

We've met a nurse on the under 3 ward who is passionately interested in malnutrition care and so once my colleagues get back hopefully we'll be able to work with them to systematize the care. The unforunate thing is that i suspect getting the refeeding formula will be like getting the Vitamin A... it is available but at great effort.

That's a lesson i've been coming to realize over time: the difficulty in fixing a broken system. The doctors & nurses are skilled, intelligent people. But they are discouraged and unmotivated because (1) they work in a really crummy environment; (2) they don't have the tools they need; (3) even things that are available are a hassle to organize (eg, Vitamin A); and (4) they get paid poorly if at all - one of the junior doctors makes only $50USD / month. I can understand where their lack of motivation comes from in a way... I tried to convince the nurses in the neonatal units that hand washing would be a good thing... their response was "we don't have working incubators, so what's the point"... but the incubator issue is really a sign of all the other things that don't work. People get tired of fighting against a system broken on so many levels. Even after only 6 months, i can definitely understand that.

Some days I'm envious of my friends and colleagues that work for NGOs where they can set up their own system rather than trying to be an extra hand within someone else's system (or lack thereof).
anyhow, 6am comes very early... so I'd best sign off.
Take care
L.