Saturday, July 14, 2007

winding down



My last days in Burkina were too busy to allow blogging, so I apologize for the silence. I’m actually struggling to keep my eyes open to type this entry.

Wednesday evening we had a going away party for me. When it started pouring rain right at the appointed hour for the party, I was worried that no one would come – rain stops nearly everything in Burkina. In fact, Claire and I had been just about to leave home when the rain started, and as we were all dressed up in our finery we didn’t want to brave the rain and mud of driving there by moto… so had it not been for Bertrand who kindly came and fetched us, we’d have been much later than we were. But our friends braved the rain and the turn out was really good – the 4 counsellors, the 3 Kesho Bora doctors, 2 of the pediatricians, the pharmacist – and of course, Bertrand, Siddiqui and his kids and Amadou. They gave me 3 very nice gifts, and Dr Tamboura – the neonatal ward pediatrician – made a nice little speech.

The next two days were a blur of packing, and tying up an seemingly unending list of details. Why oh why do I always seem to do this sort of stuff in such a rush? Predictably, each task took at least twice as long as I’d anticipated… with Claire’s visit I definitely did not start actively doing the things on my list soon enough. Procrastination makes everything much more stressful than it needs to be.

Thursday I sorted my clothes & toiletries and told Maimouna she could take whatever she wanted of the clothes I turfed; she took them all – if she can’t use them, her sisters or friends can. She filled a bucket with clothes, plonked it on her head and headed home.

Friday was not an easy day. Rising at 6am, we started trying to finish up the suitcases, pack up the kitchen stuff to bring chez Dana, etc. As luck would have it, Friday was the only day of our entire time together Maimouna was really late – wasn’t feeling well. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem at all… but I had counted on her help to get the kitchen finished up. At 9:45 we dropped Claire at the bus; I was sad to see her go, knowing it will be a couple months before we see one another. I really, really enjoyed having her here. After that, stopped at Onatel to pay my final bill – unsuccessful … on arrival I took my number: 648. Unfortunately, they were serving only 522 and not advancing quickly at all, as there was one clerk. I left the money and bill with Julien. It went on and on.

I was worried when I showed up at the airport with my 3 suitcases weighing a total of 43kg – for a flight with a strict maximum of 20kg (can’t even pay extra baggage). Being a regular helps – they were kind enough to wave me through. I feel ridiculous lugging all this stuff to Cape Town for 4 days – but most of it is actually handicrafts and gifts with a few clothes, and a handful of leftover toiletries (the bulk were given away). I also mailed 2 boxes of books and artisanat to Veikko’s.

And then, the time was there… for the last time, I chatted with the luggage staff and went through the worlds craziest airport security (remembering we were going to an area with a simmering civil war): the passengers line up in front of men and women’s doors. You go into a tiny room with the gendarme, and they look at your visa, your plane ticket and ask if you have anything to declare. Rarely, they ask to open your suitcase and they look at the top layer of stuff. They virtually never check the hand luggage. Then, you check in. Then, you go to the security check – the xray machine has been broken for years. So, you hand your hand luggage beside the metal decector, and then you walk through – they are very thorough with making sure that you don’t beep going through the metal detector, divesting you of shoes, belt, whatever it takes. (But you can bring anything in your hand luggage!). After our last trip to Ouaga I realized that I brought a Swiss army knife as carry on – three times! – without it being noticed.

I closed my eyes and rested, and then the plane was there. And my time as a Burkina Faso PAC doctor was over.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

At the tailor

Claire and I did something this week I've been intending to do for months... bought clothes. Like everything here, not as straightforward as you might think.


Step 1: Go to the market, look through piles and piles and piles of fabric. Discuss prices. Get followed from one stall to the next by hopeful merchants. Or, alternatively, go to someone's house, and sit on the patio discussing fabric colours and prices.

Step 2: Head to a tailors, and examine posters and photos of clothes models to choose a style. Get measured. Discuss potential pricing.


Step 3: Go back 2 weeks later to check on progress. Worry that clothes won't be done on time.


Step 4: Go back another week later and pick up clothes! Discuss potential pricing. Bring home 5 custom-made outfits (top & bottom) for $60 plus fabric costs.




Step 5: Go home and enjoy new clothes!

Sunday, July 08, 2007

Farewell tour for les jumelles Sauve

Claire and I have decided to identify as twins here, since everyone we see asks "vous etes les jumelles?" - here in West Africa its good luck to give twins "donations" so we were thinking of setting up shop outside of one of the grocery stores with the other sets of twins.

This week has flown by and while I worked lots, we still found time to visit the old town and the vieux mosquee. The old town has been inhabited since about the 1400s. The quartier is a warren of mud brick buildings, with sheep, chickens, kids everywhere and fetishes (sites for animist sacrifices), not to mention the sacred catfish pond - so murky that the only sight of the catfish is their mouths and whiskers as they surface for food.

People live as they have for generations, including brewing millet beer from red sprouted millet seeds in hand-made pots, boiled over a mud brick oven for 3 days before setting down to ferment.





After the vieux quartier, we visited the mosque - a mud brick mosque dating to the 18th century. The posts sticking out are steps for cleaning / painting the facade.


After the week flew by, we had another great weekend. Friday night we flew back to Ouagadougou to have a little big city action before leaving. We dined in great restaurants, shopped up a storm and said goodbye to friends...

Saturday we had dinner with Alice Zoungrana, the HIV pediatrician in Ouagadougou - we've worked in many national meetings together. She is a determined, strong person (you may remember my blog about her mother who started the association for widows and orphans back in the 70s).

Since October, we have been using the same drivers in Ouaga for each trip - so I've spent a lot of time in the cars of Augustin (second from right) and his son, Hippolyte (far left). They took my dad and I exploring around Ouaga, have waited through numerous meetings and have even done things like rescuing my errant suitcase from Air France.

As always in Ouaga, they were hired for the weekend. Saturday evening, they took us for a beer at the maquis across the street from the airport, the last stand for a lot of travelers before they hop on the plane . It was really fun to sit and chat while fending off vendors of necklaces, carvings, batiques, sports coats and irons (?!).

Sunday we tried to leave early in the day but realized that our plane tickets were actually for Saturday's flight (yikes!). So we went exploring in a local park where all sorts of youth hang out relaxing - eating, playing drums or stereos (complete with amps & speakers), singing, and dancing. Students use the park as a study hall, escaping the busyness of homes with many kids and little space.

Fortunately, the Air Burkina folks were totally laid back about the plane ticket problem, and we made it back home again on the 5pm flight.

Its hard to believe how quickly the days are speeding by now. Our departure is this coming Friday!

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Banfora & the hipppos

We had another great weekend away. Dana joined us for a lovely trip to Banfora, about 90km from Bobo. Its towards the Cote d'Ivoire border and the area is much greener and lusher than where we are. The rainy season is truly upon us, and we are reveling in the cool weather - down to 22C at night, and only 29-30C during the day... in the mornings one can even wear a long sleeved shirt!


We had a great expedition to see hippos on Lac Tiengerela - they were so close we could see their ears moving, and hear them groaning!


On Sunday we enjoyed the waterfalls, the rock formations and the Sunday market - smelly and chaotic as always.



The domes of Kafiabougou are also quite neat.


Now we're back in Bobo for the week.

I am actually finishing up my time in Burkina Faso; next Friday I will be moving back to Canada. I have a really exciting new opportunity at the University of British Columbia, and will be doing research in Cape Town, South Africa. I am really excited about the upcoming events, but it will be sad to leave here before our clinc renovation is even done.

So the other reason why my blog entries have grown sparse is that between trying to get ready to move, spend time with Claire, and still work full time in the clinic, I've had little time for extra things.

Take care.

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Happy Canada Day!

We're far from home, with fireworks displays and Canada Day BBQs. But we are will toast Canada's 140th birthday tonight.

People here in West Africa are big fans of Canada - they see us as playing a really positive role in the region. Especially Mali - where the Governer General recently visited to a hero's welcome - but here too.

We're so lucky to come from a country that's wealthy, peaceful, equitable... despite the challenging climate.

Have fun today!

more sister time

The days are flying by... little time to blog these days.

Our current group of interns finished their 3-month pediatrics rotation Friday. We did Pediatrics Jeopardy... weren't sure how that would go here in Bobo but they totally got into it and seemed to really have fun. It was a little distressing to realize they still can't calculate maintenance fluids though...

Actually, their knowledge has really improved. In typical Burkina style, there were speeches at the end... Dr Kientega, one of our colleagues, thanked them for their work and congratulated them on their improvement. And then Masembo gave a little speech saying that they'd been really apprehensive about this rotation but that in the end they learned a lot and found the environment to be a really supportive one.




Friday night Claire and I headed to the Balafons with Sidiki and Amadou, which was fun as alway - I've mentioned them before but here are a couple photos:





The first is Sidiki, Claire and Amadou, the second is the group playing. (For the uninitiated, balafons are xylophones with gourds underneath to project the sound. They are the typical west african musical unstrument.

More later on the weekends adventures!