Friday, May 18, 2007

the Nightlife of Bobo Dioulasso: "Farafina Love"

For the second week, I went with two Burkinabe friends to "Farafina Love" (farafina means "black person" in Djoula), the "quartier populaire" live music spot with weekly balafone & tam tam music.

The highlight of the evening was the main dancer... all of about 3 years old, he was dancing up a storm for at least an hour - and he was still dancing when I became tired and decided to head home! With bushy hair standing on end, he was happy as a clam dancing with the grown-ups - once and a while heading over to beat a little on the tam-tam and then heading back out to the dance floor. And boy, did he have some moves. Some of the grown-up men danced too; they were but a side show to the star though. Towards the end he was joined by a little girl, who looked to be about 18 months old... more awkward with a few wipeouts but really enthusiastic (though she got tired of it after a couple songs).

Its a real community event, with a row of chairs & tables where people (mostly men) sit and have a drink, but then tons of people (who can't afford the $0.50 sodas) standing in the background listening. It hasn't rained in several days so the dancers were stirring up a fair amount of dust, and piles of burning garbage on the sides of the road added to the haze. There is one fluorescent light that is behind the musicians, so their faces are in shadow.

Today was hotter than usual, and even at 11pm, its still hot enough outside that in t-shirts everyone is sticky and hot. I am thankful for my air conditioner!

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