Monday, October 29, 2007
Capacity building & neo-colonialism.
We had 6 of our South African colleagues here, and had a conference to seek broad input into the planned project. I was the key organiser, though had a ton of help. We got a lot of good feedback on the study, and I think we made progress. However, one of the key issues that will keep reoccuring is capacity (and the lack thereof) and neo-colonialism. Its a challenging problem that i am not sure how we will resolve in this context.
Our South African partners are some of the world's most important TB experts, and its an honour to work with them. Within South Africa, there are few senior researchers in ID, and those that are there are hugely overworked. And worse yet, there are few people coming through the pipeline, particularly in the cultural groups that were excluded / disadvantaged during apartheid.
On the other side, we are a Canadian group that would like to help build capacity, and collaborate with South African's to get this large study off the ground. In our minds, this should be a true collaboration... but our South African counterparts have been victims of many "collaborations"... where they participate, and even spend much effort on a study only to have the data taken and publications (and hence academic credit) written by the developed country researchers. They are - understandably - very leary about entering into partnerships, having been burned before. Groups often go to SA thinking they know what's best in the South African setting, trying to do things in their North American / European way.
... and so i can understand their reluctance, and their unwillingness to be taken advantage of, or be put down by rich world researchers...
but how do we build capacity without taking resources, without imposing our rich world outlook?
We talked about PhD students & post-docs; the South African's stated bluntly that they feel there is no role for Canadian students / post docs. So, we suggested, what about having South African students / post docs involved?... but no, they responded, going on to say that they don't have the capacity to train them themselves.
The balance of offering help without being labeled a 'neo-colonialist' isn't an easy balance, and i think will be a challenge throughout this process even though we're going in with eyes wide open.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Settling in again
I've started my new job at BC Children's Hospital. I'm hoping I'll get paid for it too. (long story). But the department seems great, everyone is friendly. Fortunately I can still do some global health - with the South African project i mentioned before. More on that later.
I've found a place to live, and, despite moments of real culture shock, I am thrilled to be here and I hope I can learn a lot, contribute, and find my niche in Vancouver. And hopefully won't have to move again for a long, long time.
The plan is to keep this going - more about South Africa, and the challenges of working there. And about other things I get interested in here.
Thanks for the ongoing interest!
Take care
Laura
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Imagine if this happened in Canada...
What, you didn't hear?
Its not making headlines in your city?
Flooding has severely affected people in many of the poorest countries on earth - Burkina Faso, Ghana, Guinea, Senegal, the Gambia, Ethiopia, Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya, Sudan... all countries who can ill afford the damage.
In Burkina Faso, most villages are made from mud brick homes. The schools, the homes, sometimes even the clinics. Imagine what happens when a mud home is flooded.
Throughout the region, families barely scrape by - each wet season that things go well, they almost grow enough food for ever growing families. There are no savings, no grocery stores to buy more food, no social services to pitch in. Now, imagine what happens when the crops are gone. No harvest now, nothing to eat until the harvest next year... but these sorts of floods often set the stage for locust invasions, so maybe next year there won't be a harvest.
I know the flooding is going on because I look for it. If I was depending on CBC for my international news, today I would have read about the value of the loonie, 4 stories on the US - including a crucial story on OJ Simpson (why are we still hearing about this man?), climate change & its effects on North America including a tropical storm that isn't, several stories on the middle east & afghanistan.
And nothing about the entire continent of Africa.
Fortunately despite the rich-world apathy, several NGOs - World Emergency Relief, World Vision, Catholic Relief Services and others - are moving in, trying to do what they can within the challenges of the region.
Imagine the news coverage if this happened in Canada. Or the US. Something to think about.
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
next: Cape Town!
Well, my current project is finding a place to live in Vancouver - what a nightmare. My choices are too expensive or too small or too run down. Its more expensive than Toronto. ugh.
So today, I treated myself to a haircut - first one in a year - and manicure & pedicure. Nice to treat myself. And everyday this week I've gone for an awesome walk with my uncle - enjoying the hot (for Vancouver) weather - 25C every day. And then spend way to much time driving back and forth between the North Shore and the West side, where I want to live - it takes at least 30 min when there's no bridge accidents.
Anyhow, what is next you ask? Well, for one thing, living in the same city hopefully for a long, long time. I don't want to go through this moving chaos again for a while.
But the exciting thing about my new job is the South Africa project. My Vancouver colleagues-to-be (below - at the top of Table Mountain, in Cape Town) and I will be working with an amazing group of researchers on an enormous, 10,000-child, 20-year birth cohort study. For those of you who aren't medical types, basically it means we are going to follow and take measurements on these kids over 20 years and try to figure out questions like, what are the genetic differences between kids who get sick with TB and those who are just infected? And what about asthma, pneumonia etc? I'm really excited about the project.
Cape Town, South Africa is NOTHING like West Africa. In fact, I felt like I'd already returned to the resource-rich world when I was walking around there. Skyscrapers, fancy restaurants, malls with familiar stores... it all felt very foreign but i sure was loving the seafood!!
While we were in Cape Town for meetings, we did find time to climb Table Mountain and enjoy the spectacular views
So, stay tuned for more updates on my South African adventures - and hopefully some traveling stories too. And the odd entry about life in Vancouver in general. My next trip to Africa will probably be in January, so in the meantime will be preparations and getting things set up.
Thank you for all the lovely comments & feedback about the blog - its nice to know people are reading it. It was a substitute for a journal while I was away and it will be interesting one day to go back and read through things as the year progressed.
Take care & until next time.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
winding down
Wednesday evening we had a going away party for me.
The next two days were a blur of packing, and tying up an seemingly unending list of details. Why oh why do I always seem to do this sort of stuff in such a rush? Predictably, each task took at least twice as long as I’d anticipated… with Claire’s visit I definitely did not start actively doing the things on my list soon enough. Procrastination makes everything much more stressful than it needs to be.
Thursday I sorted my clothes & toiletries and told Maimouna she could take whatever she wanted of the clothes I turfed; she took them all – if she can’t use them, her sisters or friends can. She filled a bucket with clothes, plonked it on her head and headed home.
Friday was not an easy day. Rising at 6am, we started trying to finish up the suitcases, pack up the kitchen stuff to bring chez Dana, etc. As luck would have it, Friday was the only day of our entire time together Maimouna was really late – wasn’t feeling well. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem at all… but I had counted on her help to get the kitchen finished up. At 9:45 we dropped Claire at the bus; I was sad to see her go, knowing it will be a couple months before we see one another. I really, really enjoyed having her here. After that, stopped at Onatel to pay my final bill – unsuccessful … on arrival I took my number: 648. Unfortunately, they were serving only 522 and not advancing quickly at all, as there was one clerk. I left the money and bill with Julien. It went on and on.
I was worried when I showed up at the airport with my 3 suitcases weighing a total of 43kg – for a flight with a strict maximum of 20kg (can’t even pay extra baggage). Being a regular helps – they were kind enough to wave me through. I feel ridiculous lugging all this stuff to Cape Town for 4 days – but most of it is actually handicrafts and gifts with a few clothes, and a handful of leftover toiletries (the bulk were given away). I also mailed 2 boxes of books and artisanat to Veikko’s.
And then, the time was there… for the last time, I chatted with the luggage staff and went through the worlds craziest airport security (remembering we were going to an area with a simmering civil war): the passengers line up in front of men and women’s doors. You go into a tiny room with the gendarme, and they look at your visa, your plane ticket and ask if you have anything to declare. Rarely, they ask to open your suitcase and they look at the top layer of stuff. They virtually never check the hand luggage. Then, you check in. Then, you go to the security check – the xray machine has been broken for years. So, you hand your hand luggage beside the metal decector, and then you walk through – they are very thorough with making sure that you don’t beep going through the metal detector, divesting you of shoes, belt, whatever it takes. (But you can bring anything in your hand luggage!). After our last trip to Ouaga I realized that I brought a Swiss army knife as carry on – three times! – without it being noticed.
I closed my eyes and rested, and then the plane was there. And my time as a Burkina Faso PAC doctor was over.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
At the tailor

Sunday, July 08, 2007
Farewell tour for les jumelles Sauve
This week has flown by and while I worked lots, we still found time to visit the old town and the vieux mosquee. The old town has been inhabited since about the 1400s. The quartier is a warren of mud brick buildings, with sheep, chickens, kids everywhere and fetishes (sites for animist sacrifices), not to mention the sacred catfish pond - so murky that the only sight of the catfish is their mouths and whiskers as they surface for food.
People live as they have for generations, including brewing millet beer from red sprouted millet seeds in hand-made pots, boiled over a mud brick oven for 3 days before setting down to ferment.
After the week flew by, we had another great weekend. Friday night we flew back to Ouagadougou to have a little big city action before leaving. We dined in great restaurants, shopped up a storm and said goodbye to friends...
Saturday we had dinner with Alice Zoungrana, the HIV pediatrician in Ouagadougou - we've worked in many national meetings together. She is a determined, strong person (you may remember my blog about her mother who started the association for widows and orphans back in the 70s).
Since October, we have been using the same drivers in Ouaga for each trip - so I've spent a lot of time in the cars of Augustin (second from right) and his son, Hippolyte (far left). They took my dad and I exploring around Ouaga, have waited through numerous meetings and have even done things like rescuing my errant suitcase from Air France.
As always in Ouaga, they were hired for the weekend. Saturday evening, they took us for a beer at the maquis across the street from the airport, the last stand for a lot of travelers before they hop on the plane . It was really fun to sit and chat while fending off vendors of necklaces, carvings, batiques, sports coats and irons (?!).
Sunday we tried to leave early in the day but realized that our plane tickets were actually for Saturday's flight (yikes!). So we went exploring in a local park where all sorts of youth hang out relaxing - eating, playing drums or stereos (complete with amps & speakers), singing, and dancing. Students use the park as a study hall, escaping the busyness of homes with many kids and little space.
Fortunately, the Air Burkina folks were totally laid back about the plane ticket problem, and we made it back home again on the 5pm flight.
Its hard to believe how quickly the days are speeding by now. Our departure is this coming Friday!
Tuesday, July 03, 2007
Banfora & the hipppos
We had a great expedition to see hippos on Lac Tiengerela - they were so close we could see their ears moving, and hear them groaning!
On Sunday we enjoyed the waterfalls, the rock formations and the Sunday market - smelly and chaotic as always.
The domes of Kafiabougou are also quite neat.
Now we're back in Bobo for the week.
I am actually finishing up my time in Burkina Faso; next Friday I will be moving back to Canada. I have a really exciting new opportunity at the University of British Columbia, and will be doing research in Cape Town, South Africa. I am really excited about the upcoming events, but it will be sad to leave here before our clinc renovation is even done.
So the other reason why my blog entries have grown sparse is that between trying to get ready to move, spend time with Claire, and still work full time in the clinic, I've had little time for extra things.
Take care.
Sunday, July 01, 2007
Happy Canada Day!
People here in West Africa are big fans of Canada - they see us as playing a really positive role in the region. Especially Mali - where the Governer General recently visited to a hero's welcome - but here too.
We're so lucky to come from a country that's wealthy, peaceful, equitable... despite the challenging climate.
Have fun today!
more sister time
Our current group of interns finished their 3-month pediatrics rotation Friday. We did Pediatrics Jeopardy... weren't sure how that would go here in Bobo but they totally got into it and seemed to really have fun. It was a little distressing to realize they still can't calculate maintenance fluids though...
Actually, their knowledge has really improved. In typical Burkina style, there were speeches at the end... Dr Kientega, one of our colleagues, thanked them for their work and congratulated them on their improvement. And then Masembo gave a little speech saying that they'd been really apprehensive about this rotation but that in the end they learned a lot and found the environment to be a really supportive one.

Friday night Claire and I headed to the Balafons with Sidiki and Amadou, which was fun as alway - I've mentioned them before but here are a couple photos:
The first is Sidiki, Claire and Amadou, the second is the group playing. (For the uninitiated, balafons are xylophones with gourds underneath to project the sound. They are the typical west african musical unstrument.
More later on the weekends adventures!
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Traveling part 2: Tiebele
This next pic is a village compound nearby... the cows live in the center of the courtyard every night, the people sleep on the roofs in the hot season, and chickens wander all around. You can see the millet fields in the background.
People cook with little outdoor stoves, made from recycled tin - often oil barrels that have been rewelded to make stoves. They use charcoal or wood... there are few trees in the non-protected areas of Burkina.
It was a fascinating weekend for both of us... though i think that the highlight for Claire was finding a stall in the Po market that had about 100 Canadian baseball caps from places like Thunder Bay, Calgary, Aylmer... from goodwill in Canada to a cargo ship landing in Lome, Togo and then by road to Po, Burkina Faso! And one will make the return journey back to Canada...
Take care & have a good week.
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Traveling sisters!

More later... Tiebele, the market, and catching up after a year apart!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Pats on the back
But today from a number of fronts we got some nice feedback. A counsellor from an association that we haven't been in touch with before came to ask us to see a child, and mentioned that rumor has it in the HIV world that we're doing a really good job. And a counsellor from REVS+, one of the biggest associations, said that their mom's are reporting to them that they are really happy with their care and the work we're doing.
Some mothers are scared to see us as its generally known now that the white doctors see HIV patients only and they don't want to be seen coming into our office.
And, our renovation started finally!!!!!!!!!
I can't say how glad I am that this is finally moving forwards. Actually coming through with something will be important for our credibility here. And it will make our work WAY easier to have a drug room, 3 consultation rooms, a blood drawing / procedure room and a waiting area all our own. YAY!!! Leah has spent many, many hours getting this up and running - she's done a huge amount of work for this. So, by mid-August we should have the CHU-SS / BIPAI Pediatric Day Hospital up and running. YAY!!
AND my sister is coming tomorrow! So its all good for right now.
Take care
Laura
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Happy Father's Day!!
Well, as other kids abroad are doing today, I am certainly thinking of my dad - who is working in the NICU on this Father's Day.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
A day in the life...

Sunday, June 10, 2007
Books!
We received a huge box of text & reference books from BIPAI this past week. What a treat! We are really grateful for the references and they will be really helpful.
The English speaking community in Bobo (5 of the 6 BIPAI-associated folks plus our friend Nanette) got together for a book exchange today, for novels and fun books. I've really been enjoying having the time to read more novels in the last year than in the previous several years. Since there aren't any sources of English books here, we trade books from time to time. One advantage is that it gets us reading books that we wouldn't choose otherwise but that are often enjoyable.
Have a safe and enjoyable week.
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Quote of the day
"Its a bad idea to test kids for HIV because if they're positive, then we'll be obligated to look after them".
Is it not a worse idea to let them die undiagnosed? Or wait until they present with obvious AIDS, at which point they may be too ill to save, or they may end up with permanent side effects? (He seemed to think that preferable).
But part of his point was understandable; they don't want to create a visible need if they won't have the resources to deal with it. So we tried to reassure him that we were happy to look after any seropositive kids he found if he did decide to test kids. On one hand, I can understand his anxiety... but if we don't test kids, we won't know how many resources we need to advocate for.
Monday, June 04, 2007
on being discouraged
But it gets discouraging here because everything, every single thing, is so hard. Some days its hard to have the energy to keep fighting the battle.
Why should it take 4 months, >10 meetings with 3 NGOs, 2 UN agencies, 4 MoH departments. 2 hospital departments and two weeks of stalking a pharmacist to get a drug that is provided by the Canadian government FREE for all Burkinabe kids (vitamin A)?
I keep hoping that something, anything, just one thing, will go smoothly, easily. That PlumpyNut will rain out of the sky. That we will get the liquid kaletra before Aimane dies.
We are all trying so hard, working such long days and nearly every weekend and it is never good enough - that's probably whats hardest. Maybe that's part of why most of our local colleagues throw up their hands and say "it can't be done" - like the Vitamin A story (at the beginning, several people told me that Vit A was not available to the hospital, that there was nothing that could be done about the fact that we didn't have it).
We do have victories and despite the fact that i am really discourged, I think, I hope that we are making progress; but none of this comes easily.
Omar & Fofana
Omar is 13 and he was our very first patient; when we first met him, he weighed 24kg and had severe tuberculosis of his right lung and pleura; his CD4 count was around 120. He is an orphan, and lives with his uncle and grandmother. He stopped going to school earlier this year because he was too sick.
Today, after 5 months of anti-TB therapy and 3 months of ARVs, he weighs 32kg, and doesn't have that skeletal appearance any more. His adherence is 100% and he even asks good questions about his treatment sometimes. He's feeling better, and able to do more. Its wonderful to see the change in him!
The second child, Fofana, is about 2; equally, when we first met her, she was already on ARVs but really malnourished and sickly. She hardly lifted her head, much less played. This morning, she was exploring around our office like a healthy kid, with a mischevious grin and even a bit of a fat tummy.
Those are the things that make this job worth while. Seeing kids start to get better, start to smile and be normal kids again.
Saturday, June 02, 2007
Foiled again
People from the other BIPAI sites write positive, upbeat posts about their kids who are doing so well on ARVs. That's what I want to be writing, really, it is.
We do have a few successes - one of our malnourished patients gained a little weight last week after weeks of alternating between weight loss and holding steady. And our very first patient who had TB & HIV, who we started on ARVs is gaining weight, feeling better and doing pretty well. And we are helping look after a whole bunch of kids who were terribly sick before they started ARVs and now are doing well.
But what haunts me when I go home at night are the ones who aren't doing well.
In our one room clinic (for 4 doctors) in a cockroach-infested hospital, without nutritional supplements, we continue to watch kids waste away for the forseeable future.
It makes it worse to know that in the other BIPAI sites, they work in fancy new buildings, they have nutritional supplements, PCR, second line drugs, a computerized health record system, other needed medications usually available. They get things like text books, and drug dosing cards. They have receptionists and a waiting area. And nurses. They even have bathrooms! (we have none of the above).
We do have 1st line ARVs, 1st line TB drugs, and a few other drugs - many places in Africa don't even have that, so I am thankful for that. And we can give them vitamin A now!! And we have our textbooks from home, and our own computers.
But often, we write prescriptions for meds that we know the parents won't buy because they can't afford it. We send them to the CREN, knowing they don't get adequate calories there and yet that is the official government system for now.
From a fancy hotel, or a business class plane seat, or a fancy white SUV, its easy to talk about taking things slowly, not "rushing things" or pushing to hard.
But how do you do that when the kids you are looking after are starving before your eyes? While a shipment of PlumpyNut expires because it's not being used. How do you cope with that?
If you think you can change it or that it will change, it helps - that's what has sustained me for the last 6 months. But if there is no relief in sight, what then?