window onto Burkina life

I took the bus to Ouagadougou again & back again for another meeting. It’s a neat window into life here. The bus station is chaotic (though not too crowded until shortly before the bus goes), with motos and suitcases and boxes everywhere. The ‘upscale’ buses like the one I usually take only fit stuff in the holds; some of the other bus lines have stuff stacked on top too.

As we drive through the countryside, its remarkable how much different the landscape looks now that the dry season is upon us. Instead of being a clear, intense blue, the sky is hazy, the blue partially obscured by the dust hanging in the air. The trees still have leaves but the grass, bushes & old crops are all brown now. Piles of harvested cotton lay by the side of the road, ready to be put in bags & loaded onto trucks. Many of the vehicles are totally overloaded; I saw one bush taxi (mini vans or sometimes small buses) so packed with people that in each row of seats there were a couple people standing… but the roof is to low to stand, so they are bent nearly double. What a way to spend a several hour drive! We passed one bus with a little herd of 4 goats on the roof; they must have been tied up there though nothing was visible from below, just 4 goats trying desperately to stay upright at 80km/hr. Some of the bush taxis have people riding on the roof racks, or hanging off the back too.

Half way there, we stop in a village called Boromo where there is a rest stop place. As soon as the bus pulls in, vendors run towards it with their goods. The thing Boromo is known for are these little sesame snaps (sesame & honey) and there are dozens of girls & young women selling those. But other women have soft drinks, apples, bananas, beigniers (like an unsweetened donut – tastsy when they’re very fresh). Young boys sell small packages of Kleenex… “Lotus” brand, so as you get off the bus, you have a fistful of ‘lotus’ waved in your face. Once the first wave of vendors finishes, the beggars start making the rounds. Some disabled people, plus boys from the Islamic schools (I’m not sure why, but begging for money / food is part of what they do when they go to Islamic school). The boys run around in little packs, often holding hands or with their arms around one another. Its such a relief to be outside, but usually after a few minutes, I get a bit overwhelmed with all the attention and duck back into the bus.

I have to say though, although its an interesting cultural experience, 3, 5-hour bus rides in a week is too many. I was pleased to be reunited with my suitcase and the dvds, chocolates etc that it held.

Now that the dry season is established, we’re starting to have occasional water cuts in the mornings; thank goodness for my large water filter which means I always have enough for cooking / drinking. It makes one more aware of water use, that’s for sure!